Standby vs. Portable Generators: How to Choose for an Eastern Ontario Winter

Power failures are a fact of winter in Eastern Ontario. When the lights go out, priorities are simple: keep the heat on, keep water moving (sump or well), keep food cold, and keep phones/internet alive. There are two practical ways to cover those bases at home: a permanently installed standby generator or a portable unit tied into your panel with a proper transfer switch. Both work, but they suit different budgets, outage patterns, and tolerance for hassle. Standby Generators vs Portable Generators How They Work: Standby: Fixed outside on a pad, piped to natural gas or propane. An automatic transfer switch senses an outage and starts the unit within seconds. No cords, no manual start. Portable: Roll-out unit you start manually (pull-start or electric). Runs on gasoline or dual-fuel gasoline/propane. Safest setup uses a manual transfer switch or panel interlock installed by a licensed electrician. What They Power: Standby: Often the whole home or a priority circuit list (furnace/boiler, sump or well pump, fridge, key outlets, internet). Portable: Essentials only: furnace/boiler blower, fridge/freezer, sump/well pump, a few lights, router. Pros: Standby: Automatic, reliable in bad weather, no refuelling runs, quieter, safer. Weekly self-tests keep them ready. Good for frequent/long outages, finished basements, wells, medical devices, or work-from-home. Portable: Much lower cost, flexible, and you can store it the rest of the year or use it for other things. Cons: Standby: Higher upfront cost. Professional installation and permits required. Needs clearances from openings and snow drifts. Plan for annual maintenance and fuel supply concerns. Portable: You must be home to set it up, refuel it, and manage cords if no transfer gear. Never run it indoors or in a garage carbon monoxide risk. Store fresh fuel with stabilizer. Doing The Math: Our winters mean ice, wind, and cold starts. Priorities are simple: keep heat, water, and food safety covered. If you heat with gas/propane/oil, power the furnace/boiler blower—that's what keeps the house warm. Electric baseboards or heat pumps draw much more; size up if that's you. Keep sump/well pumps on to prevent flooding and keep water flowing. Standby units need a cold-weather kit and clear venting (don't let snow drift in). On propane, use a large enough tank for cold-weather vaporization and keep it topped up; natural gas is continuous. Portables: fresh stabilized fuel, low-temp oil, outdoor-only, and a code-compliant transfer switch or interlock—never back-feed. Simple formula: Size (kW) ≈ [(sum of running watts × 1.25) + largest motor surge] ÷ 1,000. If your well pump needs 240 V, make sure the generator and transfer gear provide it. For most homes, that math points to a 3–7 kW portable for essentials or a 10–22 kW standby for automatic, near whole-home coverage. To be sure it's right—and safely connected—a licensed electrician can confirm the numbers and help get you set up so you have peace of mind before the snow starts flying.